General information
Where’s my rent bill: Just in case you forgot – last September
you paid rent for 15 months. Your next bill will be coming in January 2010.
Plot inspections As usual the Committee took a stroll
round the fields at the beginning of June to carry out the annual plot
inspection. This exercise has become more of a general assessment of both plots
and infrastructure, as plots are constantly assessed by field reps in order to
keep ahead of the game in these very high demand times. The progress in the
general level of cultivation is quite encouraging to those of us who have been
doing this for the last 10 years or so. However, anyone who remembers the sites
in the early post war years must remain unimpressed (see the quote under the
headline). Certainly we are nowhere near achieving our potential in terms of
food production. Many of the paths hedges and areas of communal responsibility
are unkempt. Having said that there is no doubt that we are moving in the right
direction.
Who do I contact?
To notify change of address: Christine Styles. To get
another key: John Molton To give up your plot: Your Field Rep To apply for
concession: Christine Styles or direct to the City Council.
Resolutions for 2010
AGM: Resolutions for
the 2010 AGM should be submitted to the Committee before the December Committee
meeting (14th Dec 2009).
THE ORCHARD has
seen a lot of changes over the past year. The compost loo has been
completed with non-slip paving. It is well used, particularly by
children, but we would ask that parents supervise children, and see that they
do not put too much sawdust down. (We have run out of sawdust) Also
that the lid is replaced & the door fastened.
The
car park was cleared and levelled, with raised beds and other plantings put
round. Ideas for stopping the brambles & other weeds growing back
would be welcome. (Remember we are organic)
The
shipping container is being painted by Louella one of our plot holders and we
hope to put a green roof on top of the container. We would like some
large carpets donated to cover the butyl liner for the roof.
Fruit
crops this year have been good. Plenty for our members to pick when they
come up and do a bit of work. Surplus fruit sold on Farmers Markets etc
and on Apple Day helps to supplement our membership income. Plot-holders
are welcome to pick up windfalls, but not pick fruit without permission.
I forgot to add
- usual activities at Apple day Sunday 18th October 2-4 pm
For
further information Tel Pauline on 0117 924 8124, or e-mail orchard.membership@avonorganicgroup.org.uk
www.avonorganicgroup.org.uk
APPLE DAY SUNDAY 18TH OCTOBER 2-4pm
Manure Mr Hanham on 967 4456
Ashley Down Shop
- Open Saturday & Sunday: 10.30 – 12 [FOOT OF
STATION RD)
Field reps
Baptist Field Reps
|
|
19
|
Fiona Reid
|
914 9039
|
|
19
|
Joe
McSorley
|
914 9039
|
|
Birchall Field Reps
|
|
11
|
Sally Newberry
|
973 5196
|
|
28
|
Ted Ayers- Hunt
|
938 0688
|
|
Grahams Field Reps
|
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Telecoms
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4
|
Phil Hall
|
969 5716
|
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Highbury Rd
|
21
|
Alan Lock
|
951 4679
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Longs
Field Reps
|
|
16a
|
Mike Cooksey
|
924 5880
|
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12
|
Roger Chainey
|
942 4849
|
St Agnes Field Reps
|
|
7
|
Pete Clee
|
975 6647
|
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68
|
Ken Smith
|
924 1728
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49
|
Neil Pirie (Chair)
|
942 7123
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Davis Field Reps
|
|
24
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Sarah Rhodes
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942 1346
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13b,13c
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Ken MacNeill
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942 3345
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Christine Styles – Plot Manager
|
330 1639
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John Molton - Secretary
|
942 2040
|
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Brian Styles - Treasurer
|
330 1639
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|
|
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Plea from Pete
COMPOST FACILITY; St Agnes car park
The GREEN WASTE compost bins here have been misused by
too many people who think it the ideal place to dump household rubbish.
Unfortunately, because of the selfish actions of these
people, we have decided to close the site until further notice. Remember, all
those who undertake work on OUR site are volunteers and have other things
to do besides sorting out your rubbish.
Please compost your green waste on your own plot,
dispose of any woody waste with a bonfire in the winter, and TAKE ANY OTHER
RUBBISH HOME! Please do not throw weeds and rubbish into the hedges.
TREES
Many plots have trees, self seeded or planted,
growing out of control.
These must be removed or properly pruned. We would
remind you that the only trees that we permit are those grown on dwarf rooting
stock.
Any that we consider are outside these restrictions
may be removed arbitrarily and you may be at risk of losing your plot if
you do not abide by these guide lines.
TOMATO BLIGHT
Diseased plants should be removed immediately there is
any sign of blight, indicated by blackening of the stems, usually in the higher
parts of the plant.
These diseased plants should be disposed of
immediately by taking them home and placing in the household bin NOT the green
waste or in a compost bin on your plot. We are not sure if this year's blight
is because of prevailing conditions this year, probably not, or because of poor
housekeeping over the last two years. Blight is caused by an airborne virus and
we must be aware of the impact not only on our own plot but on all the plots on
the site.
PLEASE display your plot number
Contributions from our
Members
A First Year On The Allotment
It was with some dismay that I first gazed at the allotment
I’d waited for, for so long. On a freezing day in the winter of 2007/08, I was
introduced to it by Pete. Silly me, I thought I’d be taking over from someone
who’d just given up and it would all be more-or-less ‘sorted’. Although that
was not the case, it looked as though it had been derelict for the last fifty
years, there was a very healthy, well-established nettle patch, lots of strong
brambles and the dreaded couch grass. I don’t think I expressed much enthusiasm
when Pete showed me around, and I’m sure he had serious doubts about my ability
to do the job. I didn’t actually start working on the plot until January 2008,
and was heartened to discover I’d actually inherited some things worth having –
some strong raspberry canes, a row of blackcurrant bushes, a few overgrown
strawberry runners and a little plant in a pot, which looked like it could be
something (it turned out later to be a hollyhock and has been planted in the
wrong place). But there is really nothing more encouraging than to find you
have got something already there.
Christine
Styles has asked me to write about how I got my plot to be productive in my
first year, and I guess, for me, production
is the priority.
At the
beginning, everything needed doing, so it was difficult to prioritise. I’d had
dreams of being self-sufficient in fruit, vegetables and flowers I could cut for
my house. When I’d been working (in a proper job), I’d been in the habit of
spending around £10 a week on cut flowers, and I was reluctant to take flowers
from my garden at home.
For me, the
priorities are vegetables: potatoes; brassicas and beans. Though, for other
plot holders, the priorities are likely to be different. First I had to clear
the brambles, couch grass, nettles, and that unbelievably persistent and
intractable weed, cinquefoil – good grief, their long black roots were 30cm to
40cm long in the solid clay soil, and they were everywhere. That said, a year
on, I think I’m winning and I believe that others’ plots have much more
difficult weeds. (I refuse to consider bind-weed is a ‘difficult’ plant – it is
just so easy to remove in regular weeding).
During that
first winter of digging I discovered that this heavy clay ground changed from
the deep, clinging mud of Passchendaele to a brickyard. Between heavy rain and
drought I had about three or four days to dig effectively
I was
amazed to realise how heavy the soil was. Although I think I’m quite fit, there
is only so much digging in this ground I can do in a session, so I set myself a
range of tasks for each day the weather allowed me to work the plot – clearing
rubbish, burning any wood-based rubbish ( it took several bonfires, I was awed
by how much of it there was), removing brambles- well as much as could, sorting
compost bins, pruning raspberry canes and blackcurrant bushes, spreading
liberal amounts of manure. I discovered the blackcurrant bushes had ‘big-bud’,
so I dutifully removed all affected branches and burned
them. However, a neighbour then pointed out to me that it is
endemic in the allotments area, so there little point in being stressed about it.
I’ve since ignored it and it has really been not much of a problem.
I’m lucky,
in that my favourite crops suit the soil type I’ve been lucky enough to be
allocated. By mid March, I’d planted several ridges of early potatoes, adapting
a technique I’d seen in the West of Ireland on lea ground. I hacked out a
shallow trench (20cms or so), put a thick row of manure into this trench,
placed the potatoes on top at 30cm spacing and spaded up the earth from either
side. I later did the same with late early/main-crop potatoes (and in fact,
since I still hadn’t tilled all my ground this spring, I’ve used the same
method again). I know I’m supposed to ‘earth-up’ but for the most part, the
ground was too heavy for me to do that. And yes, I did get a few green potatoes,
but I also had a great crop of wonderful tasting potatoes, for minimal effort (
I used Accent for 1st early and Sunrise for 2nd early),
and a lot of ground was effectively tilled for me.
My compost
bins couldn’t cope with the volume of weeds I was digging out, so I invested in
several rolls of heavy duty plastic sacks. I didn’t bother to remove the earth
from the weed roots – especially couch grass and nettles – I just put them into
the sacks and used these to hold down a layer of black polythene lent to me by
Pete for a significant part of my plot (it only took a few months for this to
break down to a usable mulch to put back into my plot – although I’ve had
irritating numbers of nettle seedlings appearing everywhere I’ve spread this
since. I’m no fan of nettles).
As soon as
possible, I used an area I was able to till well as a brassica seedbed and
sowed whole packets of cabbage, sprouts, broccoli, calabrese Romanescu, etc.
Too many of each, but my real regret is that I didn’t keep a record of the varieties
I sowed. I also sowed a range of salad vegetables and was overwhelmed by the
success of these ( I’m not a great salad eater and couldn’t give them away fast
enough).
Before
long, I looked longingly at the plot beside mine. Pete had been planning to
cover it for a year before re-allocating it. Although it was a haven for couch
grass, and the bottom third was the original home for Sleeping Beauty. The
briars/ brambles had taken over to such an extent that a tree, in the middle,
was invisible. Pete suggested I give it a try to see how I got on with it
before committing to it. By the time I’d used my well tested technique with my
maincrop potatoes and liberally planted with brassicas, beans and my favourite
luxury vegetable – globe artichoke, there was no way I felt I would not make
this plot work for me.
I cannot pretend I’ve used totally
organic methods to gain control of the plots, especially the whole plot I took
over later. When it became apparent I could not dig and remove couch grass
manually in time to plant, I resorted to glyphosate, which worked wonderfully
on couch grass, though it had little impact on cinquefoil, bind-weed and
brambles. For those weeds, I just harry them relentlessly (someday I believe, I
will win!).
Over the last year, I’ve had many
disappointments:– my outdoor tomatoes got blight, so in the end, I got none;
with the endless rain, my
outdoor peppers were tasteless; the slugs ate the
aubergines, slugs/ snails and woodlice ate most of the celeriac, swedes, and
the few carrots and parsnips that germinated. But nothing could compare with
the successes and the thrill of being self sufficient with most of my essential
crops. Yes, I’ve had to buy onions, garlic, and leeks ( I didn’t start in time
to plant them); yes, I’ll always have to buy mushrooms; yes, my potatoes ran
out by Christmas. But since my salad vegetables first came on line by May 2008,
there hasn’t been a week when I’ve not brought home enough vegetables to eat.
It hasn’t always been what I’ve wanted – brussels sprouts and purple-sprouting
broccoli make for a boring all-winter vegetable, but it certainly beats going
to the shops to buy imported and of dubious provenance, vegetables.
All of these have given me the
strength and inspiration to continue and move towards my personal goals – which
I’ve discovered, are very elastic.
Already I’m getting neurotic about
having enough vegetables to last me the winter and early spring. I’m planning,
and can’t wait to order for next year ( and now I have a spreadsheet of
everything I’ve done this year, I have more information to work on). Of course
I have to keep in mind – what worked this year may not work next year-there is
a continuing build-up of diseases and pests, there is the weather to consider.
Advice please:
·
What
can I grow in my tunnel over winter?
·
How
can I store carrots ( without a freezer?)
·
My
onions, although they grew well initially, gave a dismal crop, how do I improve
this?
·
Germination
rate of beans and peas this year has been abysmal – 25% at best. What do I do?
( That said, an early sowing of runner beans had no place to go except into my
polytunnel. Although they grew on well I was advised they would not be
pollinated and would not, therefore produce a crop. They were brilliant! I
can’t recommend this enough. Although they did, kind of, take over the tunnel,
I’ve had runner beans from 10th May from seeds sown in February.
I really can’t overestimate the encouragement and support
I’ve had from other plot holders, both well established and newcomers. They’ve
provided me with advice, plants (check at the gates for free giveaways),
essential materials like netting, suggestions for supplies and genuine praise
and encouragement. But there is nothing to beat your own experience – what
worked this year, how can I improve this? What didn’t work this year – what
have my neighbours done which could improve my performance; how can I learn
from last year’s mistakes; how can I build on what I have learned so far? Oh
yes, and what can I do with those gluts of vegetables when it goes well?
During my first year I was asked if
I thought I’d saved money by having an allotment – my answer was, most
definitely not. There were so many things to buy – seeds, netting, canes,
posts, manure, slug pellets, etc, etc. This year, however, I do feel I’ve
recouped my expenditure (since I’d bought a small polytunnel) and next year I
hope to be ahead. But this is not my motivation. I love the exercise, the fresh
air,
the wildlife, the fresh produce. How can I put a cost on all
of that?
Marjorie McCartney
July 2009
Help!
Ever wondered what to do with those gluts of
vegetables – cauliflower, cabbage, broad beans, runner beans, peas,
strawberries lettuces, tomatoes, even radishes – and lots of others?
I know:
* freeze them – the freezer’s full, and they don’t
all freeze successfully;
* dry them – not suitable for lots of fruit and veg;
* pickles, jam, jelly, chutney – good for lots of
stuff, but there are only so many preserves
you can eat;
* give them away – even your friends and neighbours
are saying ‘enough!’;
* well, eat them – of course!
Trouble is, while many of these vegetables are great,
they do have a habit of all coming at once. This spring, having waited,
somewhat impatiently for my overwintered cauliflowers, I suddenly had a lot of
huge heads all at once – and they don’t sit. I love cauliflower, but after I’d
eaten it with cheese sauce, parsley sauce, curried, in soup, as pakoras, in
vegetable lasagne, made piccalli and pickle, I was running out of ideas. Even
googling provided me with only a few other ideas.
Way back then, before freezers and supermarkets were
invented, growers were always having to cope with gluts of produce. Perhaps
your parents or grandparents have ideas. Perhaps you have old books.
Now to the point -
I’d like to produce a book / booklet with ideas, recipes, ‘how to do’s, (like
drying beans) – to sell for a nominal price, through the allotments
association, with all profits going back to H&DAA.
I think it would be good if this ‘publication’ also
contained useful advice for growing/ storing/ disease protection/ etc. Lots of
members have years of experience and lots of knowledge. Why not share this with
other members?
I see this being the work of a year, at least. If you
have ideas, advice, recipes you’d like to contribute, please send to my email
address: shahpur1@aol.com , or to Christine Styles email address – see
newsletter. Or see me on plots 16 or 17
Baptist.
Thank you, in anticipation
Marjorie McCartney
Your Say
If you
would like to contribute to the newsletter please contact Christine at christine_styles@hotmail.com
or on
01173301639 not later than 8-00pm please
Buying Seeds in Bulk
Most seed companies offer seeds for sale in smallish
quantities which are perfectly acceptable in most cases. However, there are
some seeds which are needed by allotment gardeners in larger quantities which
makes their purchase in multiple standard packs expensive. The Allotment shop
in Station Road, Ashley Down helps us by offering the popular seeds of Onward
peas and Aquadulce broad beans at a very acceptable 20p per ounce. They also
offer 20% discount on Dobies seeds if you order before early December.
I wanted to try something different this year so I sent off
for 1kg each (minimum quantity) of Canoe and Hurst Greenshaft peas which I have
used as a main vegetable and as a second crop when I am clearing beds before
the end of June. As a price comparison Thomson & Morgan offer Hurst
Greenshaft at £2.49 for 450 seeds, my 1 kg for £3.25 contained over 4,500. The
supplier is Tuckers Seeds who offer a very wide range of bulk seeds. Examples
of their 2009 prices are:
Hurst
Greenshaft , Feltham First, Kelvedon Wonder peas £3.25 per kg
The Sutton
broad bean (a short, wind resistant favourite of mine) £4.25 per kg
Bunyard
exhibition broad beans £3.75 per kg
Emilia,
Lazio spinach (grow/freeze in bulk) for 25,000 seeds £5.00
Sweet
nugget F1 sweetcorn for 100g £5.00
Fodder
radish (green manure) enough for 30 sq mtrs £5.50 per kg
Tuckers
full range can be seen on the link http://www.tuckers-seeds.co.uk/?grower=true.
Simply enter the required quantity to see the price charged.
There is a carriage charge of £6.00 for up to 30 kgs
I will be ordering again this year and would be happy to
share postage costs with anyone who would like to purchase bulk seeds in this
way. If you don’t want the full minimum amount, why not share them with a
friend or ask me to try to find a partner from those who have responded. I read
that pea and broad bean seeds will last 3 to 4 years if stored in cool, dry
conditions so you are not limited to a single year’s sowings. If you are
interested, please contact me by email and I will keep you informed of progress
and likely costs.
philip.drew@blueyonder.co.uk
Using a siphon on your allotment
A siphon is a continuous tube full
of liquid which links two reservoirs. So what?
Many of us have multiple water butts which can be linked by
a tube (length of garden hose) acting as a siphon. If the hose is kept full of
water and the ends kept continually below the water level in the two butts,
water will run from the butt with the higher water level until the water level
in the other butt is at the same height (above sea level, not measured from the
bottom of the butt). You can do this with as many butts as you want. Thus water
running into one butt will be siphoned into the others making them all act as a
giant reservoir. Similarly, taking water from any butt will cause the siphons
to replenish some of the water to keep the levels the same in all the butts.
See below.
If the water starts at the level of
the thick black lines, after a period, the levels in the three butts will be as
shown by the grey areas.
This will work best if the butts are
about the same height and the bottoms are on a level with each other. Filling
the hoses is done by immersing the hose totally in the water of one butt,
blocking the end you are moving and transferring it to the bottom of the 2nd
butt. When you release it, water will flow. Don’t forget to tie a rock to the
end to keep it down and make it less easily displaced.
My butts are behind my shed,
inconveniently meaning a round trip of 35 yards on average to fill up my
watering cans. However, and here’s the smart bit, the butts don’t have to be
together, although water flow is slower the further they are apart. So my
autumn project is to move two of my butts to one third and two thirds of the
way down my plot and link them together with lengths of garden hose pegged to
the ground for safety. This will then save me yards, time and energy when
watering – let gravity take the strain!
This technique could be extended if
you had a tap on one butt. You could then fill your watering can, a dip tank or
even use a length of hose to water plants directly. Don’t leave it on though as
it will then empty all your butts!
Philip Drew
Don’t forget –
To
watch the notice boards for winter working days
If you haven't
already, and are interested, please look at http://tinyurl.com/mj9ahq there is a Downing Street petition
to sign against allowing use of aminopyralid (the herbicide that contaminated
manure last year) again. You can go straight to the petition on http://tinyurl.com/ltelwx
